Larry Jordan's Final Cut Training

Sign up for Larry's FREE
Monthly Newsletter!

Converting HDV Video for a Letter-boxed DVD

This article was first published in the January, 2010, issue of
Larry's Final Cut Pro Newsletter. Click here to subscribe.

Eric Wrate writes:

I shot HDV on a Canon HV20. Edited it on a iMac using the latest version of FCP. I now need to be able to burn a "letterbox" version (i.e. black bars top and bottom - showing a 16:9 image).

Can you tell me in simple talk how to achieve my goal. I am only using FCP and Toast 9 (I have their Plug in HD/BD plug in).

I have previously done this by editing in HDV - when finished I highlighted my time line and copied it. I then opened a new project - and set the Easy setting to DV-NTSC and "pasted" the copied file into the new project. I then rendered it and saved it (it took a time for this) - but it worked. I have tried this - now, and it does not work.

Have they changed something in the new version of FCP?

Larry replies: Not necessarily, but probably -- it's a new dialog starting with FCP 6.

Before we start, let me stress something you mentioned. When you want to put video on a DVD, it must be standard-def, not high-def. HDV is a high-def format. Blu-ray Discs (and its cousin, AVCHD Discs) are the only options for high-def media on optical discs.

So, here are the steps to get started:

  • Convert the HD into SD video
  • Compress it
  • Get it to play letter-boxed.

There are three ways you can do this:

Option 1. Create a new SD timeline. You can use DV/NTSC, but I prefer using DV50 - the files are twice as big, but the image quality is better. Then, copy and paste JUST ONE HDV CLIP into this new sequence.

When you see this dialog, say No. This tells Final Cut not to change the sequence settings to match your clip. (This dialog first appeared in FCP 6.)

Delete the clip you just pasted into the timeline.

Copy your entire HDV sequence and paste it into the Timeline. Now that you've properly configured the timeline, everything should be properly letter-boxed.

This is an improvement on your method and it works, but I tend not to use it, as I prefer how Compressor changes the size of a clip.

Option 2. Export your sequence from Final Cut Pro as an HDV movie. (Use the Current Settings option with File > Export > QuickTime movie.)

Compress the file using Compressor using the appropriate DVD Best Quality settings from the Apple > DVD folder. This automatically down-samples your movie to SD and compresses it for DVD.

Import your movie into DVD Studio Pro and place it into a 4:3 track.

This works, but I prefer to have letter-boxing turned on only for those TV sets that require it. This option letter-boxes everything and could cause problems with 16:9 TV sets. My preference is the third option.

Option 3. Export your sequence from Final Cut Pro as HDV.

Compress the file using Compressor using the appropriate DVD Best Quality settings from the Apple > DVD folder. This automatically down-samples your movie to SD and compresses it for DVD.

Import your movie into DVD Studio Pro and place it into a 16:9 track.

This displays your movie at 16:9 on TV sets that support 16:9, and automatically letter-boxes your movie for TVs that only display 4:3.

For me, this third option provides the fastest workflow (no additional rendering in Final Cut Pro), highest quality (Compressor does a better job than Final Cut Pro), and greatest flexibility (16:9 and 4:3 support, depending upon what the TV set displays).


UPDATE - FEB. 4, 2010

Bill Megalos adds:

When I work with HDV and am looking to output an SD DVD, I let iDVD do all the heavy lifting. File> Export>QuickTime Movie using current settings, (ie, you will end up with a 1440x1080 QT file) and let iDVD do the conversion to SD. Much faster and looks fine, especially if you choose Professional Quality in the preferences iDVD>Preferences>Projects>Encoding>Professional Quality.

That should handle at least 30 minutes, if it balks at that, choose High Quality. Please note that changes apply ONLY to subsequent projects, so check/change you preferences and then start the project.

MUCH faster than downconverting in FCP or Compressor and I think it looks better than FCP and possibly as good as Compressor.

Larry replies: Bill, this is a great tip and something I didn't know. Thanks!

 


Larry Jordan is a post-production consultant and an Apple-Certified Trainer in Digital Media with over 25 years experience as producer, director and editor with network, local and corporate credits. Based in Los Angeles, he's a member of both the Directors Guild of America and the Producers Guild of America.

The information in this article is believed to be accurate at the time of publication. However, the author assumes no liability in case things go wrong. Please use your best judgment in applying these suggestions.

The opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author. This newsletter has not been reviewed or sanctioned by Apple or any other third party. All trademarks are the property of their respective owners and are mentioned here for editorial purposes only.

Links to my website home page or this article are welcome and don't require prior permission.

                   

Home | About | Final Cut Studio Training | Final Cut Studio Tips & Articles |
Goodies | Products | Email Support | Contact

© 2010, Larry Jordan & Associates, Inc. All rights reserved. info@larryjordan.biz